Just thought I'd add a bit of a mishmash here of thoughts that have occurred to me as I've travelled around in different places. So these are not chronological, nor are they place-specific. Not in any order either - just as they come off the top of my head.
• The size of food portions in the UK is pretty much equal to the HUGE sized portions you get served up in the US. Have no idea why this is so and I've spoken to a few people about it who have also noticed the phenomenon. All agree that it's a relatively recent development, but is gaining momentum and probably more than contributes to the equal gain in the national waistline average. Asking for child-sized portions helps to get around it, or just ask for the soup.
• Salads in the UK comprise only Ice lettuce (none of the great lettuce varieties I'm used to in Aus), and probably 2 slices of tomato - that's it. Very disappointing as I love salads that have variety and taste (without relying on various dressings to provide said taste).
• Even menus supposedly in English in French restaurants are predominantly in French, so there's little chance of trying to work out the meaning of the French words for food, which can then be used to order in restaurants which don't offer an English menu. And as a lot of food items have a different French word than the English one, it can be daunting and limiting if you're not wildly adventurous with what you're going to eat. I tend to stick with things I can at least recognise and have some idea that I will enjoy, rather than be served a meal that doesn't appeal to my palette, is therefore a waste of money and leaves me still needing to eat.
• Bathrooms in most of the less expensive (but not necessarily low end of the market) hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs tend to be little more than cupboards, and I will never complain about the size (or lack thereof) of my shower at home again, as it's bigger than most of the shower stalls I've encountered. Also, having such huge single tap mixer controls, and usually a dangling, in-the-way, flexible pipe from the shower head to the control, means that even for someone small as me you can't lean over to pick up the shampoo, but have to bend down from the knees. And even then so many times, I knocked the control and either got hit with an extra hot or extra cold couple of seconds of water before I could readjust it. Very annoying.
• Very few train stations, even in major centres, accommodate people carting suitcases. This was especially the case in the London underground, though I know they're sorting it out with the upgrades. I was also not alone with having a big traveling bag and so many people struggling up a couple of flights of quite steep stairs makes one wonder why there's not at least a small side ramp up which to wheel bags. Going down isn't an issue as you can just set the bag on it's way down in front of you if it's wheeled. Luckily, in the UK, someone always helped out. Not the case in France however. There you have to fend for yourself regardless of how much of a struggle it is.
• No-one makes a good cup of tea like the English do - the French really suck at it and you can't get a pot of tea made with tea leaves anywhere - just like in the US. At least in Asia you can get Jasmine tea, ordinary green tea or good black tea, and in the middle east the tea is equally good so long as you remember to stipulate NO SUGAR unless you like a lot of it in your tea.
• You can drink the water from the taps in UK and in France. Not something I've ever been game to do in Asia or the middle east, but did in the US. Now when you consider that the UK use recycled water in their potable supply, that's something of a leap of faith for me - but no ill effects had at all.
• The English REALLY like their heating. I was slowly steamed in so many places and removing layers of clothes while the English were still rugged up in their jumpers and woolly coats. Completely stifling at times and more than once I felt the desperate need to get into the fresh air.
• Double glazing on windows should be mandatory in all houses in Aus. Great not only for temperature control, but for noise reduction from traffic it's great.
• UK and Europe have these really neat windows that you can open either inward from the side, or inward at the top depending on which way you turn the opening handle. First came across them in Munich when I arrived. Scared the hell out of me as I was expecting the window to open inward from the side, and panicked a bit when it seemed to be falling outward on me from the top until I realised it was supposed to do this and had a stop point. Great for air movement without having the disadvantage of a large and heavy window sticking into the room, as they all open inward, not outward as in Aus.
• When you ask for milk with your tea in France, you get container of hot milk. Someone needs to tell them that it means you want un-heated milk.
• The best hot chocolate in the world has to be in the Belgium Chocolate Shop in The Shambles in York.
• The icecream in France is to die for - absolutely fabulously creamy and yummy. And this from an icecream connoisseur. The best I've had anywhere except maybe for that time we stopped at the home made icecream place near Noosa that was also a Mango plantation - many years ago.
• I don't feel guilty for taking a day out and just doing nothing but reading or playing on the computer and I've come to be very considerate of my feet. They get regular massages and rubs with cream. They deserve it as most days they take me at least 10 or more miles.
• I discovered that i understand quite a lot of French words I'd forgotten I knew (I was actually quite good at French at school, probably from having done so many years of it as a ballet dancer). So picking up the gist of conversation is sometimes not impossible. At times it comes down to thinking how the word would look if spelt, and then I understand it because it's just spoken differently to how I'm familiar. This on its own has been quite an interesting observation for me. At times I can figure out what things like descriptions are in the various museums, on menus, in railway stations. And in the usual way of assimilating a language, figuring out what the words for Exit, Toilet, Taxi, Bus, Train etc are, these all add to a bank of knowledge. Next is to see if the same happens in Germany, though my knowledge of that language is light years away from even the basic French I have.
• Not many French people speak English, but evidently most Dutch and Germans do I'm told - yet to be tested. However, I'm sure a number of Brits don't speak English either as I've had difficulty understanding them at times depending on where I've been. Has been much like in the US. Regional accents, use of language and local words make it almost impossible to comprehend at times, meaning much nodding and trying to figure it out on the fly. Doesn't help that such linguistic divergents are usually spoken so fast that you're still figuring out what was said 5 minutes ago, and miss the whole thing. Felt like an idiot on more than one occasion.
Well that's all I can think of for now - but I'll add to this as I get further inspired.
Friday, April 30
Thursday, April 29
Thursday 29 April - Avignon
Deep breath - get ready because there are a lot of pics with this one - too hard to do this any other way.
Arrived here in Avignon yesterday having ridden the train through the gorgeous French countryside. You know you're getting closer to the Mediterranean as the countryside gets increasingly more thickly green. Pass by old ruins of old fortifications and castles perched on hilltops, and pretty little stone-built villages.
Avignon bustles - and the first thing you see when you come out of the train station is an opening in an old wall that seems to go all the way around the town (well the centre anyway). I later discovered that this is indeed the case as the town was actually the Papal seat for quite some time before the Vatican, and that the original Papal castle is here.
Crossed over the Rhone on a bridge (one of the Ponts D'Avignon) and to my hotel - old building but completely modern inside - I have a real bathroom for a change (not a cupboard) and a great view from the room (which has a small balcony). The pic here is from the rooftop breakfast restaurant which is above my room.
Settled in and went for a walk back over the bridge into the town. Great fun wandering through the back streets away from the tourists and found a couple of very good little museums. The Musee Calvet which had a load of wonderful 15th to 18th century artworks and sculptures, and a small natural history museum called Requiem. Load of excellent fossils, and lovely old books from the likes of La Perouse including their original collections of plants etc.
Sat in the square to the side of the Papes Palace and drank red wine while listening to the music of some Chilean pipes from a busker and reading my book, then wound my way back to the hotel for a relatively early evening. Have booked myself on a tour of the Provence area tomorrow morning and they pick up at 7:50am.
And so for the reason for all the pics. The tour ended up being 2 tours and so the whole day, but what an amazing day it was too. 6 people in the morning and 8 of us in the afternoon. So here are all the pics with descriptions as it's too hard to write it all here.
The stone-built town of Gourdes where only the rich can afford to live. But it's very beautiful
Les Baux de Provence - seemingly carved into the Bauxite rocks on the top of the hill - there's a ruined castle on the top at the right. But the town itself is steep, beautifully constructed of stone and while it's the most visited village in France, we got there early, before the tourists.
Roussilon is built on iron hills that have been oxidised and are now completely ochre of all its variant colours. All the houses are built of it, making the village a beautiful tapestry of colours worthy of any painter. It's no wonder Van Gogh and all the rest of them loved painting in this region.
The complete Roman arena at Arles is incredible. It was used as a venue for gladiator fights in Roman days, and today it's used for annual bull fights as well as other events - so it's had seemingly continuous use for over 2000 years.
The outer walls are about 4 - 6 feet thick in places and 3 levels high. The size of the blocks of limestone used to build the supporting areas are massive, and the arched walkways inside are engineering feats on their own. A lot of the stairs are worn from so many feet for so many years and wandering around the structure you get a feeling that this building is deep in the fabric of the region's life.
The audio guide tour of the arena is excellent, and there's a room dedicated to the bullfights they have here as well as one for the gladiators which is extremely interesting and informative. I never knew that the gladiators were NOT slaves as the movies would have us believe, but actually specially trained fighters, much like boxers are today.
It's a little disturbing though to find out that in this arena, some of the bullfights held here end in the death of the bull, something I know has ceased in Spain.
The arena itself was built originally to house about 26,000 people, though I doubt it would hold that number these days given the condition some of the areas are in and modern laws on these things.
It's a much smaller structure than the hippodrome in Palmyra in Jordan, but in far better condition than any other I've seen and is in fact the most compete Roman arena there is.
Pont du Gard - defies me and words. Completely incredible example of the fantastic engineering skills the Romans had. This aquaduct takes water from a region miles away and was built to traverse a valley and took 15 years to build. The bit we saw over the river is only part of a massively long structure in all, with the water running along one of the upper levels. It's incredible that such a huge structure was built just to carry water - today we'd build a pipeline and suspend it - or pump the water, but the Romans used natural declination and good old gravity.
I did get a bit carried away with taking pics of and reading all the old graffiti carved into the parapets and walls though. Some of it dates back to the 17th century, and as I know the Romans had a habit of carving their names and messages into all sorts of places, I'm sure there was some here at one stage. It's just worn away now.
The pic I've decided to use here has a simple carved initials and the date 1758. Some of them are quite decorative, others beautifully structured lettering, and others are little more than carved scrawls. There is a common artifact in a lot of them though. They feature what seems to be a stone mason's hammer. I'd love to know what that means.
So now you see why I didn't want to blather on about the day. Suffice it to say that I had enjoyed every minute of it, all in good company, and all with the most beautiful balmy weather.
Tomorrow I again pack my bag and head off. This time to Lyon, then after a couple of days to Chamonix in the Alps and some actual, live, real mountains.
Arrived here in Avignon yesterday having ridden the train through the gorgeous French countryside. You know you're getting closer to the Mediterranean as the countryside gets increasingly more thickly green. Pass by old ruins of old fortifications and castles perched on hilltops, and pretty little stone-built villages.
Avignon bustles - and the first thing you see when you come out of the train station is an opening in an old wall that seems to go all the way around the town (well the centre anyway). I later discovered that this is indeed the case as the town was actually the Papal seat for quite some time before the Vatican, and that the original Papal castle is here.
Settled in and went for a walk back over the bridge into the town. Great fun wandering through the back streets away from the tourists and found a couple of very good little museums. The Musee Calvet which had a load of wonderful 15th to 18th century artworks and sculptures, and a small natural history museum called Requiem. Load of excellent fossils, and lovely old books from the likes of La Perouse including their original collections of plants etc.
Sat in the square to the side of the Papes Palace and drank red wine while listening to the music of some Chilean pipes from a busker and reading my book, then wound my way back to the hotel for a relatively early evening. Have booked myself on a tour of the Provence area tomorrow morning and they pick up at 7:50am.
And so for the reason for all the pics. The tour ended up being 2 tours and so the whole day, but what an amazing day it was too. 6 people in the morning and 8 of us in the afternoon. So here are all the pics with descriptions as it's too hard to write it all here.
The stone-built town of Gourdes where only the rich can afford to live. But it's very beautiful
Les Baux de Provence - seemingly carved into the Bauxite rocks on the top of the hill - there's a ruined castle on the top at the right. But the town itself is steep, beautifully constructed of stone and while it's the most visited village in France, we got there early, before the tourists.
The outer walls are about 4 - 6 feet thick in places and 3 levels high. The size of the blocks of limestone used to build the supporting areas are massive, and the arched walkways inside are engineering feats on their own. A lot of the stairs are worn from so many feet for so many years and wandering around the structure you get a feeling that this building is deep in the fabric of the region's life.
The audio guide tour of the arena is excellent, and there's a room dedicated to the bullfights they have here as well as one for the gladiators which is extremely interesting and informative. I never knew that the gladiators were NOT slaves as the movies would have us believe, but actually specially trained fighters, much like boxers are today.
It's a little disturbing though to find out that in this arena, some of the bullfights held here end in the death of the bull, something I know has ceased in Spain.
The arena itself was built originally to house about 26,000 people, though I doubt it would hold that number these days given the condition some of the areas are in and modern laws on these things.
It's a much smaller structure than the hippodrome in Palmyra in Jordan, but in far better condition than any other I've seen and is in fact the most compete Roman arena there is.
I did get a bit carried away with taking pics of and reading all the old graffiti carved into the parapets and walls though. Some of it dates back to the 17th century, and as I know the Romans had a habit of carving their names and messages into all sorts of places, I'm sure there was some here at one stage. It's just worn away now.The pic I've decided to use here has a simple carved initials and the date 1758. Some of them are quite decorative, others beautifully structured lettering, and others are little more than carved scrawls. There is a common artifact in a lot of them though. They feature what seems to be a stone mason's hammer. I'd love to know what that means.
So now you see why I didn't want to blather on about the day. Suffice it to say that I had enjoyed every minute of it, all in good company, and all with the most beautiful balmy weather.
Tomorrow I again pack my bag and head off. This time to Lyon, then after a couple of days to Chamonix in the Alps and some actual, live, real mountains.
Tuesday, April 27
Tuesday 27 April - Paris (last day)
In the late morning, Cheops and I headed for a walking tour around the Notre Dame area, and the little back streets around the Latin Quarter, which includes the Sorbonne.
Notre Dame itself is one solid looking cathedral, and I was surprised to see it wasn't like the cruciform ones I'd seen in the UK. It's easy to see why it's a Paris icon though, and a wander around it allows you to see both the Norman beginnings and the later more Gothic changes made to the design.
Something I've noticed about Paris from being with Cheops and using car parks, is that the entryways to them to go collect your car are not marked. They're just down sets of stairs hidden away. So it's a case of trying to backtrace your steps to when you came out in the first place, then making an educated guess as to which 'hole' in the ground you go down. In the case of Notre Dame, it was the one marked 'toilets'.
We eventually wound our way back to the car, and as I said, found the relevant set of stairs disappearing into an apparent hole in the ground.
It wasn't until we got back to my hotel and I was about to get out of the car that it occurred to me that I would be leaving Paris in 1 day. A sad moment - so we'll have dinner together tomorrow evening after our respective days.
Woke up this morning in a panic - for some reason I thought I had to leave today. Once I calmed down and realised that I'd put today aside to wander the streets of Montmartre, I was fine, so mid-morning saw me sat reading my book drinking coffee in one of the local cafes, then off up past the Moulin Rouge to start the walk up the hill along the delightful little cobbled streets to the centre of Montmartre. Along the way I passed the oldest existing Windmill, a load of really interesting architecture, and crossed the artist's square to the Dali gallery.
The Eiffel Tower can just be seen on the right through the trees.
Spent some time wandering around the quite beautiful, if relatively recent Sacre Coeur cathedral, and took my time over lunch, red wine and reading my book. The weather is still absolutely beautiful and walking in the sun is a delight. Chatted to a number of very friendly people of all sorts, and overall had a truly good time.Sacre Coeur on the top of the hill at Montmarte
Wandered back down the hill, and over the bridge which crosses the Montmartre Cemetery. What interests me is the similarity to the New Orleans ones. Loads of little family crypts. And I wonder if they're buried that way for the same reasons as in New Orleans, though I doubt the use of the Louisiana hot weather plays the same part here in Paris.
The painter Degas is buried somewhere in here
We're heading out to dinner tonight - so long as the rural worker protest (2000 or so of them have made their way to Paris for some political point-scoring or another). My bags are packed and ready, and I know which underground trains I have to catch to get to the Gare de Lyon in the morning to begin the next bit of my trip - south to Avignon.
Sunday, April 25
Sunday 25 April - Paris still
Again we had the most beautiful weather, and also again, lunch was scrumptious, long and most enjoyable.
The castle itself is a monument to excess - but in it's excess it has a great beauty. The thing that stuck out most for me was the way the rooms lead one into the next and into the next, as if there is no privacy allowed - no closing off of rooms other than between the wings, in which case crossing the vast courtyard would be an option I suppose.
The entry way is grandiose, and the 307 million euro refurbishment is significantly done, replacing the gilding on the outside of the building and much of the outer statuary. It will be a wonderful legacy for France once it's complete. It's also interesting that a concerted effort has been made to re-acquire the original furniture after it was looted from the castle following the revolution. This means that the refurbishment is returning much of the interior to exactly as it was in the days of it's habitation.
One small highlight of not only this day, but also all the time so far spend in Paris, was when Cheops showed me her home and introduced me to her family. I feel a kindred with her that's going to be long-lived.
I'm becoming aware that my days here in Paris are coming to an end and tomorrow I must organise the rest of my trip. I'm already aware that I'll never make the 8 May deadline for the existing flight home, and I'll have to extend that by a bit more than a week.
The Seba Sideways concert in OL last night was like the icing on the cake of a really good day - even though it was very late by the time I hit the sack.
So a day spend figuring out dates and days, and destinations. Much consulting of the Lonely Planet oracle, and train lines and schedules. Finally got it figured out over lunch, and tomorrow morning I'll contact my Aussie travel agent and get them to change things. I've now put here on the blog, the planned itinerary.
Spent a fair bit of time in OL today too, which was lovely, doing some building on Tropicana and chatting with people I've not talked to for a while.
Tomorrow we're off to explore the wonders of the Notre Dame, and the area around the Sorbonne - small streets in the artist's quarter (Latin quarter).
Plan for Tuesday then is for me to explore the Montmatre area and the Sacre Couer and spend the evening packing my bag.
Wednesday will be off traveling again.
Friday, April 23
Friday 23 April - Paris
Typical paris Scooter parking
I'm getting a list of things I want to do before I leave, and today I ticked one of them off - my visit to the Hard Rock cafe. The collection here is more contemporary than many I've been in, but still some key pieces - Dylan's mouth organ and frame, the fur coat John Lennon wore on the Abbey Road rooftop gig they did and one of his famous black suit coats with velvet lapels. Added another Hard Rock charm to my watch and a pin to my collection.
The sky today was as clear as a bell, not a hint of any haze and everything seems sharp and clean. A few more vapour trails in the sky today, so flights must be getting back to normal. Will probably mean that the number of tourists will be back up to normal (overwhelming) by mid next week, so this little time I've had has been like a gift (lumps and bumps notwithstanding). Spending time with Cheops has been sheer delight, and we've spent many hours over good food or coffee chatting about each other, our families, our lives and our countries. I'll truly miss being able to do this when I go, we'll have to make do with skype and exploring OL :D.
Tomorrow it's off to the Palace of Versailles - a place that's something like a fairy tale to me. For now, I'm soooo tired.
Yawn!
Thursday, April 22
Thursday 22 April - Paris
Woke up this morning feeling sooooo much better. Skin isn't nearly so tight on my arm and I'd had a good night's sleep. The pills and cream seem to be doing the job. So when I headed down to meet Cheops for another day's looking around Paris, I had no problems getting around in my slippers, and felt wonderful.
I might add here that my slippers are little black cotton booties with a pliable rubber sole, so not dissimilar to regular boots, just much softer, lined and lightly padded. Ideal.
Off to the Louvre - cos if I can't walk well, there's always a wheelchair to hire as a last resort.
As it turned out I had no issues at all and we had the most wonderful day in this remarkable building. We got completely lost, only found some of what we set out to see, but got to see the highlights - Mona Lisa among them. The statues defy description. Stunned at how many, how good their condition is and how beautifully rendered they are. Can't say what was a showstopper for me, but I think seeing the actual Code of Hammurabi was one - something completely unexpected. Also the history of the Louvre itself. I never had any idea of it's development and underlying history, so this and the way it is presented was fascinating to me. Way too much else.
Once again, it seems I've managed to walk Cheops's feet off and after we navigated our way back past the Moulin Rouge and the seedier side of Paris to the Rue de Clichy (where my hotel is) and couldn't find parking to go get a drink, we headed off to Montmartre for dinner among the tourists and history. I can see why it has inspired artists. It's such an intriguing, atmospheric area. Wonderful food, good red wine and great companionship. All at the end of what had been a memorable day. Can't thank Cheops enough for spending time with me to explore her city.
Tomorrow I'll get the hop-on hop-off bus for the day, then Saturday I'll head off to Versailles on the Metro and meet up with Cheops again to explore this most famous landmark.
I've also extended my Paris trip until next Thursday, so i can truly get to explore in depth.
I might add here that my slippers are little black cotton booties with a pliable rubber sole, so not dissimilar to regular boots, just much softer, lined and lightly padded. Ideal.
As it turned out I had no issues at all and we had the most wonderful day in this remarkable building. We got completely lost, only found some of what we set out to see, but got to see the highlights - Mona Lisa among them. The statues defy description. Stunned at how many, how good their condition is and how beautifully rendered they are. Can't say what was a showstopper for me, but I think seeing the actual Code of Hammurabi was one - something completely unexpected. Also the history of the Louvre itself. I never had any idea of it's development and underlying history, so this and the way it is presented was fascinating to me. Way too much else.
Once again, it seems I've managed to walk Cheops's feet off and after we navigated our way back past the Moulin Rouge and the seedier side of Paris to the Rue de Clichy (where my hotel is) and couldn't find parking to go get a drink, we headed off to Montmartre for dinner among the tourists and history. I can see why it has inspired artists. It's such an intriguing, atmospheric area. Wonderful food, good red wine and great companionship. All at the end of what had been a memorable day. Can't thank Cheops enough for spending time with me to explore her city.
Tomorrow I'll get the hop-on hop-off bus for the day, then Saturday I'll head off to Versailles on the Metro and meet up with Cheops again to explore this most famous landmark.
I've also extended my Paris trip until next Thursday, so i can truly get to explore in depth.
Wednesday, April 21
Wednesday 21 April - Paris
Talk about a holiday day from the pits ... woke up this morning and there's no way I could even consider putting shoes on my feet. It's bad enough thinking about it let alone actually doing it. I could hardly bear to put my feet on the ground and put any weight on them.
Not a happy lady - I'm in Paris, in springtime on a glorious sunny day - and I'm not going to be able to go out of the hotel. Getting sun on these blisters (some of which are like huge blood blisters) would be a dire thing to do, not to mention I have a picturesque path of huge red swollen blotches running from just above my right eye, down my cheek at hairline and on down and across the front of my neck. Not something you want to be seen in the street with.
Must admit I felt a bit like having a good cry - I'm hopeful that tomorrow may see a bit of a change though or at least some improvement, so I settled down in the hotel room.
And in true form - the internet is again not working, so it was reading, and dozing for the day.
Did get out in my sandals to get a delicious Italian lunch just around the corner, but even then, I was in pain walking the short way back to the hotel - damn.
Got my clothes back though - all washed - including a cardigan that will never be quite the same again - but I at least have clean clothes.
Internet working once more later in the day, so here I play. Cheops and I will discuss in the morning what to do for the day tomorrow, as she'd kindly offered to drive me to at least SEE the sights, even if I can't spend the hours I'd like to walking around them.
Seems I wore her feet out anyway yesterday with the trip to the Branly :)
Not a happy lady - I'm in Paris, in springtime on a glorious sunny day - and I'm not going to be able to go out of the hotel. Getting sun on these blisters (some of which are like huge blood blisters) would be a dire thing to do, not to mention I have a picturesque path of huge red swollen blotches running from just above my right eye, down my cheek at hairline and on down and across the front of my neck. Not something you want to be seen in the street with.
Must admit I felt a bit like having a good cry - I'm hopeful that tomorrow may see a bit of a change though or at least some improvement, so I settled down in the hotel room.
And in true form - the internet is again not working, so it was reading, and dozing for the day.
Did get out in my sandals to get a delicious Italian lunch just around the corner, but even then, I was in pain walking the short way back to the hotel - damn.
Got my clothes back though - all washed - including a cardigan that will never be quite the same again - but I at least have clean clothes.
Internet working once more later in the day, so here I play. Cheops and I will discuss in the morning what to do for the day tomorrow, as she'd kindly offered to drive me to at least SEE the sights, even if I can't spend the hours I'd like to walking around them.
Seems I wore her feet out anyway yesterday with the trip to the Branly :)
Tuesday, April 20
Tuesday 20 April - Paris
When I arrived at the hotel last night they had let out the room I couldn't use the night before because I was stuck in Normandy - so they sent me to a hotel around the corner and I can have my room here then for the next few nights at least from the next day.
So I walked the 100 or so metres to the other hotel and checked in - seemed ok. Internet was dodgy and kept dropping out, but hey, nothing unusual. Headed to bed fairly late after finding a great restaurant for the most delicious Filet Mignon I've ever had, then slowly sauntering back.
Discovered some red marks on the back of my left hand when I was showering this morning and they were itchy. First thought was - bed bugs! But I then thought no, may have been mosquitoes or some other cause. Packed up and headed back round to the first hotel to leave my bags then headed out to find good coffee and read quietly for a while until it was time to meet Cheops.
Red marks a bit more itchy by that time, and my worst suspicions were being jogged along, but it wasn't anything too bad at that time, and there was little I could do about it anyway.
I'd been bitten by bed bugs in a Sydney hotel once, so I know how it takes up to 24 hours for the full extent to make itself known - and then there's the week or so of itchiness hell until they start to fade. I also know what they look like and feel like.
Once again, my virtual life friend and I recognised each other instantly. It never ceases to amaze me that this happens every time and it's as if we have been real life friends forever.
Cheops took me on a bit of a quick tour pointing out some of the sights I'd only ever read and heard about, on the way to the Eifel Tower. The Iceland volcano (which is the main source of blame for so much in Europe at the moment) meant that the sky, although clear of any clouds on a beautiful sunny spring day, was quite hazy with visibility quite reduced.
I still have great difficulty coming to terms with the fact that I'm really in this place - it's quite surreal an experience. So many films and tv shows I've seen all this in - with never even an inkling I'd be looking at them while juggling a map to help navigate the mad Paris traffic. Here I was at the Arc de Triomphe, having gone along the Champs Elysees and past the Tuileries. Then along past all those places I'll never have the nerve or the dress style to ever go near, and the beautiful art nouveau exterior of Maxims. Very heady stuff while Cheops negotiated the insane Paris traffic that seems to have little rules other than those related to chaos theory (and she tells me the traffic is very very light at the moment).
Our intended destination was the Eifel Tower and the Musee du quai Branly. Parked the car and headed to the cafe for a snack. We ended up sitting over lunch and chat for quite some time - must have been nearly 2 hours. It's surprising how much we have in common, and how comfortable and warm I feel in my delightful friend's company.
As lunch progressed so did the extent of the bite marks on mainly my left hand and arm, but nothing to stop further exploration. We had decided to give trying to get up the Eifel a miss due to the length of the queue of people trying to do the same thing - I was just as happy to look up from below this enormous and complex structure and take in the sheer size of it. Haze would obscure most of the view anyway.
So we headed into the Musee, to explore the indigenous cultures of Africa, Asis, Oceania and the Americas. Way too much to go into here, but it stuck me quite strongly, that by seeing all the parts of all of the huge number of cultures exhibited here, there are a lot of strong similarities between certain aspects of ritual life from Africa to Peru, through the Asian region, Maori culture, New Guinea and the Pacific island nations, and the north and south American races. In particular the use of masks in religious, martial and life stage rituals. We also noticed similarities in woven patterns in cultures separated by thousands of miles of sea.
All in all, a marvelous exhibition, even if it all started to blur together after a while, as our feet got sorer and our legs hurt. The other thing that had happened was that my feet were also now covered in red bits and my toes were starting to swell. Generally all getting very uncomfortable.
I was getting increasingly worried about how to handle this when I got to the hotel, and Cheops wisely suggested I visit a pharmacy for something to treat what were by now blistering, angry red lumps on both hands, my face, neck and feet.
So I arranged to speak to Cheops again this evening and discuss our next excursions, and headed into the pharmacy where a lovely lady who spoke English was horrified at the extend of this little lot and got quite angry with the hotel, advising that I report it to the police if the hotel do not make some sort of recompense and take action.
Cream and pills in hand I headed the few yards to the hotel and spoke privately with the manager there, who was equally horrified at the other hotel and his phone conversation with them was stern to say the least. In the meantime I was emptying the contents of my bag into a large plastic bag for fumigating and washing (which he undertook to do himself and deliver to me in the morning).
I'd asked him as soon as I showed him my arms et al, to assist me to do this as I did not want to go to my room with anything that might remotely spread the infestation. He was extremely efficient and understanding, reassuring me it wasn't my fault when I told him I felt really bad at having to land him with this. I was also feeling very grubby by this time too and just wanted to get into a shower.
Eventually, I got to my room with the things I'd had in sealed zip lock bags (luckily this little practice meant I therefore had some clothes to use) and after a hot shower, had cleaned hair and much relieved by the cream from the Pharmacy.
Have no idea what tomorrow will bring, as I know this is going to get very uncomfortable over the next few days, and I'm hoping the welts on my neck and side of my face will not be too bad to go out. I'll have to play it by ear and assess in the morning.
Oh the joys of traveling. In all the really dodgy places I've slept in over the years in so many countries, this is the first time I've had to deal with this while overseas. At least I know what's coming and how to deal with it. If I hadn't had that, I'd have been in tears by 6pm this afternoon and in a hell of a mess. It's much easier to deal with things with equanimity if you're armed with some knowledge.
I'll probably stay longer in Paris anyway - there's just so much to explore, and it all looks so wonderful. And I'll have clean clothes.
Still smiling :)
So I walked the 100 or so metres to the other hotel and checked in - seemed ok. Internet was dodgy and kept dropping out, but hey, nothing unusual. Headed to bed fairly late after finding a great restaurant for the most delicious Filet Mignon I've ever had, then slowly sauntering back.
Discovered some red marks on the back of my left hand when I was showering this morning and they were itchy. First thought was - bed bugs! But I then thought no, may have been mosquitoes or some other cause. Packed up and headed back round to the first hotel to leave my bags then headed out to find good coffee and read quietly for a while until it was time to meet Cheops.
Red marks a bit more itchy by that time, and my worst suspicions were being jogged along, but it wasn't anything too bad at that time, and there was little I could do about it anyway.
I'd been bitten by bed bugs in a Sydney hotel once, so I know how it takes up to 24 hours for the full extent to make itself known - and then there's the week or so of itchiness hell until they start to fade. I also know what they look like and feel like.
Once again, my virtual life friend and I recognised each other instantly. It never ceases to amaze me that this happens every time and it's as if we have been real life friends forever.
Typical Paris Cafe scene
I still have great difficulty coming to terms with the fact that I'm really in this place - it's quite surreal an experience. So many films and tv shows I've seen all this in - with never even an inkling I'd be looking at them while juggling a map to help navigate the mad Paris traffic. Here I was at the Arc de Triomphe, having gone along the Champs Elysees and past the Tuileries. Then along past all those places I'll never have the nerve or the dress style to ever go near, and the beautiful art nouveau exterior of Maxims. Very heady stuff while Cheops negotiated the insane Paris traffic that seems to have little rules other than those related to chaos theory (and she tells me the traffic is very very light at the moment).
As lunch progressed so did the extent of the bite marks on mainly my left hand and arm, but nothing to stop further exploration. We had decided to give trying to get up the Eifel a miss due to the length of the queue of people trying to do the same thing - I was just as happy to look up from below this enormous and complex structure and take in the sheer size of it. Haze would obscure most of the view anyway.
So we headed into the Musee, to explore the indigenous cultures of Africa, Asis, Oceania and the Americas. Way too much to go into here, but it stuck me quite strongly, that by seeing all the parts of all of the huge number of cultures exhibited here, there are a lot of strong similarities between certain aspects of ritual life from Africa to Peru, through the Asian region, Maori culture, New Guinea and the Pacific island nations, and the north and south American races. In particular the use of masks in religious, martial and life stage rituals. We also noticed similarities in woven patterns in cultures separated by thousands of miles of sea.
All in all, a marvelous exhibition, even if it all started to blur together after a while, as our feet got sorer and our legs hurt. The other thing that had happened was that my feet were also now covered in red bits and my toes were starting to swell. Generally all getting very uncomfortable.
I was getting increasingly worried about how to handle this when I got to the hotel, and Cheops wisely suggested I visit a pharmacy for something to treat what were by now blistering, angry red lumps on both hands, my face, neck and feet.
So I arranged to speak to Cheops again this evening and discuss our next excursions, and headed into the pharmacy where a lovely lady who spoke English was horrified at the extend of this little lot and got quite angry with the hotel, advising that I report it to the police if the hotel do not make some sort of recompense and take action.
Cream and pills in hand I headed the few yards to the hotel and spoke privately with the manager there, who was equally horrified at the other hotel and his phone conversation with them was stern to say the least. In the meantime I was emptying the contents of my bag into a large plastic bag for fumigating and washing (which he undertook to do himself and deliver to me in the morning).
I'd asked him as soon as I showed him my arms et al, to assist me to do this as I did not want to go to my room with anything that might remotely spread the infestation. He was extremely efficient and understanding, reassuring me it wasn't my fault when I told him I felt really bad at having to land him with this. I was also feeling very grubby by this time too and just wanted to get into a shower.
Eventually, I got to my room with the things I'd had in sealed zip lock bags (luckily this little practice meant I therefore had some clothes to use) and after a hot shower, had cleaned hair and much relieved by the cream from the Pharmacy.
Have no idea what tomorrow will bring, as I know this is going to get very uncomfortable over the next few days, and I'm hoping the welts on my neck and side of my face will not be too bad to go out. I'll have to play it by ear and assess in the morning.
Oh the joys of traveling. In all the really dodgy places I've slept in over the years in so many countries, this is the first time I've had to deal with this while overseas. At least I know what's coming and how to deal with it. If I hadn't had that, I'd have been in tears by 6pm this afternoon and in a hell of a mess. It's much easier to deal with things with equanimity if you're armed with some knowledge.
I'll probably stay longer in Paris anyway - there's just so much to explore, and it all looks so wonderful. And I'll have clean clothes.
Still smiling :)
Monday, April 19
Paris - Finally - Monday 19th April
Getting out of UK has proved to be a bit of an ordeal. The volcano in Iceland has stopped all flights in and out of the UK - and most of Europe, and it's the end of the UK and European school holidays to make things worse.
This has meant that all those on holidays in UK from as far afield as Aus and US and South America and middle east have all been trying to get back to their homes and lives. UK being an island has limited avenues with no air services. Where it's not usually a problem just turning up at a ferry port and getting on the next one - they're now booked up solid for foot traffic from Dover to Calais and any other French port until at least Wednesday (well that was the situation as of 2 days ago). There were some ferries available if you had a car, and I'm sure a number of people hired cars to take advantage of that, but even so, the demand has meant that prices for fares and all are higher than normal.
So I was very surprised when I found that it was quite easy to get a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. This did mean a 2-hour train ride to Portsmouth from London, followed by a 5 hour ferry ride on the slow one to Cherbourg, and then another 3-hour train ride on to Paris. That's possibly because the generally air-traveling public who hadn't been able to get their flights, didn't consider there may be cross-channel transport anywhere other than the most-used Dover to Calais route.
Anyway - got to the ferry port having realised en route that I'd actually booked for the next day, and ended up managing to swap my ticket for that day and get on a fast ferry at 3:15pm. In the end it didn't end up leaving until nearly 3:45 due to the volume of passengers disembarking from the earlier ferries and embarking on other ferries. Poor terminal staff had never had to handle that many people at once I think.
Luckily, I met up with a delightful lady who is now living in France - on the Normandy coast and we got chatting all the way across on the ferry. She got her husband who was at home in France to check up train times for me from Cherbourg to Paris, but unfortunately we found the last one left Cherbourg AFTER the last ferry came in - great bit of organisation that.
So she offered to put me up in their b&b. It's never ceased to amaze me how sometimes the oddest of sets of circumstances can lead to the most wonderful encounters.
I ended up staying in the most beautiful 200-year old, fully renovated French cottage, in a completely picturesque setting and spent time with two of the most wonderfully warm and generous people you could ever hope to come across.If it hadn't been for the volcano in Iceland and me booking the ferry for the wrong day, then turning up at the ferry port to find I could take the fast ferry rather than the slower one (which I opted to do) so long as I didn't mind waiting 4 hours - and if I hadn't decided I was going to stealth my way into the boarding queue ahead of the horde of school kids and their teachers instead of my usual wait and let them all get out of the way - I'd never have spoken to Joanne, and not have had one of the best experiences you can have on a holiday/trip.
All I can say is - anyone looking for a great place to spend a relaxing Normandy holiday - give Joanne and Allan a call and book a room or two at Le Trebuchet.
This morning, J and A then took me to the delightful fishing port of Granville on the Normandy coast and we wandered through both the new (relative term really) and the old (the High Town) parts of the town. Beautiful old stone buildings and fairytale houses surrounding a wonderful old Norman church. All laid out along a coast that today had the most glorious aqua crystal sea lapping the wall. If it wasn't for the combination of sea haze and volcano detritus that hazed the horizon, you'd have been able to see all the way around a huge bay. The sun was out, I was in delightful company in a picturesque little old sea port - who could ask for more. Even more so as it was completely serendipitous.
Caught the train from Granville to Paris and finally got to the Hotel Darcet. It's a good thing they're getting used to people having difficulties getting into and out of Europe, they've been very patient with me as I'd expected to be there last night, and rang them late - when I got to J and A's place to let them know about the missed train.
Coming into Paris on the train - the Eifel Tower sticks out all on it's own - it's really Paris I'm in. Taxi ride from the train station to the hotel took me past so much of what I've only ever read or heard about.
Tomorrow it's the start of exploration. Meeting up with Cheops at lunch time and setting out to see Paris in spring time. Might have to do the view from the top of the Eifel depending on whether the haze from the volcano is still around in a few days.
Sunday, April 18
Saturday 18 April - Portsmouth (en route to Paris)
The volcano ash cloud is creating havoc to travel into and out of the UK. Sue and I tried for ages yesterday to see if we could get a seat on anything going to France or Amsterdam today - with little or no luck in a lot of cases. I did find some, but they were horrendously expensive.
So we started looking well outside the usual area, even as far afield as Newcastle, hoping to get a ferry to Netherlands. In the end I chanced upon a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg - and got a seat. Booked for the wrong day of course in my haste to get a seat, but on getting here I transferred it to a ferry today anyway so all good.
At least I've managed to get something, and will be in Paris for my hotel booking some time tonight.
Had a great couple of days in London though. Spent an afternoon in the Science museum which is nowhere near as good as the ones in Washington and Chicago I'd been to. Met up with my friend Sue who I'd not seen for 10 years or so and took in some art show openings. Lovely chatting with people, and her husband is delightful. Never thought Sue would be one for getting married, but they suit each other perfectly.
Spent a day in the Natural History museum - again, although really interesting it's hard not to compare with New York's one and the Smithsonian - and again, the comparison is a bit pale. Though the Darwin centre is truly interesting and engrossing.
Sue took me over the Millenium bridge to the Tate Modern - some lovely stuff there and a very very pleasant wander. Great view from the member's lounge upstairs over St Paul's and the Thames. Visit to Brick St and an old pub before Indian for dinner and more good conversation and time with friends.
I'm running out of time again now, but will add more when I next can get to an internet connection.
So we started looking well outside the usual area, even as far afield as Newcastle, hoping to get a ferry to Netherlands. In the end I chanced upon a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg - and got a seat. Booked for the wrong day of course in my haste to get a seat, but on getting here I transferred it to a ferry today anyway so all good.
At least I've managed to get something, and will be in Paris for my hotel booking some time tonight.
Had a great couple of days in London though. Spent an afternoon in the Science museum which is nowhere near as good as the ones in Washington and Chicago I'd been to. Met up with my friend Sue who I'd not seen for 10 years or so and took in some art show openings. Lovely chatting with people, and her husband is delightful. Never thought Sue would be one for getting married, but they suit each other perfectly.
Spent a day in the Natural History museum - again, although really interesting it's hard not to compare with New York's one and the Smithsonian - and again, the comparison is a bit pale. Though the Darwin centre is truly interesting and engrossing.
Sue took me over the Millenium bridge to the Tate Modern - some lovely stuff there and a very very pleasant wander. Great view from the member's lounge upstairs over St Paul's and the Thames. Visit to Brick St and an old pub before Indian for dinner and more good conversation and time with friends.
I'm running out of time again now, but will add more when I next can get to an internet connection.
Saturday, April 17
Saturday April 18 - London again
Just a quick update to let anyone know who's wondering - after much much looking, I've managed to secure a seat on a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg tomorrow - cos all the ferries and the Eurail are fully booked for at least the next few days.
So it's to be a bit of a ferry ride on the Channel - only 5 hours though - much shorter than I've done before at other times.
At least I can get to Europe now - was a bit of a worry there for a while. Damned volcanos. Very inconsiderate.
More later
So it's to be a bit of a ferry ride on the Channel - only 5 hours though - much shorter than I've done before at other times.
At least I can get to Europe now - was a bit of a worry there for a while. Damned volcanos. Very inconsiderate.
More later
Wednesday, April 14
Wednesday 14 April - Colchester again
Spent a great 2 and half days in London again picking up the Hop-on Hop-off, but felt a little off colour on day 2 with a bit of a stuffed sinus cold and vaguely unconfortable throat - and tired as I'd had a rotten night's sleep. At least with the tour bus you can just stay on it and get carted around.
So much I'd love to see and do, too much really - so I'll probably end up doing little of it as I won't be able to decide, just let things happen as they will.
Lunch at Leicester Square was great though - with the lunchtime chorus of chanting football supporters over the other side of the square. London is probably the most vibrant city I've travelled in. There's almost a tangible feeling of excitement, energy and purpose that I haven't noticed anywhere else, anywhere I've previously travelled. Whether that's in the US, Asia, the middle east, or in Aus.
I'll add pics to this post when I get the chance to hook in on a faster connection that where I currently am.
Was intending to go to the Natural History museum, but as the bus went past there was a queue a mile long (probably literally), so I opted to wander into the Victoria and Albert museum just down the road. Wonderful exhibition there of Europe 300 to Medieaeval. Top class exhibition of some absolutely beautiful and detailed pieces - 3 large rooms of it, all excellently curated. Again, pics when I can. Was too tired to explore any more of the museum though so just headed back on the bus as there was about another 2 hours left of the tour anyway. Have managed to get fairly well oriented and I'm pretty sure I'll be back again to check more out. No way anyone could see all there is in anything under 2 weeks, and even then I think you'd have to compromise.
Next day I ended up at the Hard Rock cafe for lunch. Been to each one in each city I've visited that has one, and as London is the original one - the first of them, it just had to be done - buy the pin, get a t-shirt that I'm hoping Zeb likes. Original guitars from so many around the walls of the cafe - The Who, Jimi Hendrix, Stones etc etc. In the vaults are the original papers setting up the Beatles as a company and the signed share certificates of the 4 of them. Pics later.
Later that day I headed back up on the train to Colchester and have spent another couple of days with my Aunt and Uncle - who are delightful people.
We went to a wonderful Medieaval town called Lavenham yesterday. The buildings are so old they're all leaning on each other or out over the streets. This area is where the tribes who joined with Boudica to route the Romans out of Colchester came from, so the histories I've been reading about are all coming together for me.
It's hard to imagine living in such close proximity to places that are 800 years old and more - and still lived in - still changing hands.
Heading back to London hopefully tomorrow to stay with a friend before heading over to the continent and Paris.
So much I'd love to see and do, too much really - so I'll probably end up doing little of it as I won't be able to decide, just let things happen as they will.
Lunch at Leicester Square was great though - with the lunchtime chorus of chanting football supporters over the other side of the square. London is probably the most vibrant city I've travelled in. There's almost a tangible feeling of excitement, energy and purpose that I haven't noticed anywhere else, anywhere I've previously travelled. Whether that's in the US, Asia, the middle east, or in Aus.
I'll add pics to this post when I get the chance to hook in on a faster connection that where I currently am.
Was intending to go to the Natural History museum, but as the bus went past there was a queue a mile long (probably literally), so I opted to wander into the Victoria and Albert museum just down the road. Wonderful exhibition there of Europe 300 to Medieaeval. Top class exhibition of some absolutely beautiful and detailed pieces - 3 large rooms of it, all excellently curated. Again, pics when I can. Was too tired to explore any more of the museum though so just headed back on the bus as there was about another 2 hours left of the tour anyway. Have managed to get fairly well oriented and I'm pretty sure I'll be back again to check more out. No way anyone could see all there is in anything under 2 weeks, and even then I think you'd have to compromise.
Next day I ended up at the Hard Rock cafe for lunch. Been to each one in each city I've visited that has one, and as London is the original one - the first of them, it just had to be done - buy the pin, get a t-shirt that I'm hoping Zeb likes. Original guitars from so many around the walls of the cafe - The Who, Jimi Hendrix, Stones etc etc. In the vaults are the original papers setting up the Beatles as a company and the signed share certificates of the 4 of them. Pics later.
Later that day I headed back up on the train to Colchester and have spent another couple of days with my Aunt and Uncle - who are delightful people.
We went to a wonderful Medieaval town called Lavenham yesterday. The buildings are so old they're all leaning on each other or out over the streets. This area is where the tribes who joined with Boudica to route the Romans out of Colchester came from, so the histories I've been reading about are all coming together for me.
It's hard to imagine living in such close proximity to places that are 800 years old and more - and still lived in - still changing hands.
Heading back to London hopefully tomorrow to stay with a friend before heading over to the continent and Paris.
Saturday, April 10
Saturday April 10 - London again
Have discovered something I didn't know about London - all the coffee shops and internet cafes close at 6:30pm on weekends - or so it seems here in Borough. I'll miss the live gig at Virtually Live again this week - which is a bit of a bugger 'cos I was looking forward to seeing everyone.
Never mind - I have more of London to explore. I'm discovering so many lovely little hotels in this city, but this latest one is the nicest so far, and by far the cheapest. Couldn't be more convenient to the underground station - it's right above it so can get everywhere really easily. And the weekend market just down the road provided a wonderful afternoon's entertainment.
The little Tudor pub net door (The Trinity) has a live local band tomorrow night evidently, so we'll see. In the meantime I'm going to spend the next couple of days exploring more before heading to Colchester to sort my stuff out, send a pile of things home that I don't need now, and do some more washing. Then it's back to London for a few days before heading off to the continent.
Borough Markets underneath the train line
The little Tudor pub net door (The Trinity) has a live local band tomorrow night evidently, so we'll see. In the meantime I'm going to spend the next couple of days exploring more before heading to Colchester to sort my stuff out, send a pile of things home that I don't need now, and do some more washing. Then it's back to London for a few days before heading off to the continent.
Thursday, April 8
Thursday 8 March - Southampton
Last day in Edinburgh I went back again to the old part of the city to explore more and decided to do the undercity vault tour. I hoped it would be one that provided info about the construction and history of what is a truly interesting underbelly - but it turned out to be a ghost tour and not a very good one. Took about an hour to go about 20 feet, and most of it involved standing in the dark in a group listening to the guide drone on about ghosts, hauntings and occurrances - with not a lot of really informative stuff. I was bored in about the first 5 mins of being in there - and had very sore feet and back after about half an hour of standing on cold stone floors. Maybe a few enjoyed it, but the Swedish guy I talked to in the hotel when I got back had the same disappointment as me.
Really glad I was inspired to go to Edinburgh. I had no expectations, but found something not only interesting, but quite unique as a city, full of history and friendly.
Travelled south to Southampton on the train from Edinburgh day before yesterday. Thought I'd take the long trip via Glasgow and through the west of England. Really glad I made that decision. The region between Edinburgh and Glasgow is so wild and empty - and quite beautiful. Old stone farm houses scattered in such isolation - sheep and loads of newborn lambs - small fields surrounded with stone walls. Wet, green and with snow-covered highlands all around.
Didn't cost much extra to upgrade to a 1st class train fare and very glad I did it. Train was delayed getting out of Glasgow by an hour and a half and various other delays along the way meant it arrived into Wolverhampton (my changeover stop) nearly 2 hours late. No big deal though, and the service couldn't be faulted.
I think I've pretty well paid for the Britrail pass with the travel so far.
Decided yesterday was to be a full rest day and so did bugger all other than read and rest in the room all day. Went out in search of food late afternoon then back for more reading before an early bed time. Was a good move.
Woke up this morning to a beautiful blue clear sky - the first one I've seen since I arrived in Munich. Early start and decided to head to Winchester on the train and check out this ancient city.
Loved it - the history of so much of what makes up the culture of the English is centred here - in particular the history of architecture, the monarchy and the church. I saw Arthur's round table (well the one built in the 12th century), the great hall where Sir Walter Raleigh was tried, queens and kings hung out and where the Romans in an earlier structure were located.
Winchester cathedral is amazing - the fact that it's both Norman and Gothic fascinated me as I really like the Norman architectural style. The audio tour was fascinating and the dates on some of the burial stones in the cathedral go back to the early 17th century. Saw Jane Austen's stone also.
The library has a couple of globes that pre-date any discovery of Australia. Really underscores how relatively young Australia is in the greater history of settled cultures.
Love having meals in the old pubs and there are so many of them - and the cups of tea are huge, hot and good. It must be wonderful to have this much historical connection within and easy train ride.
I'm getting a good picture of what my background is and the history of who I am and where I came from. It's having a very strange effect on me though - not in a good way either, but I'll take more time to assess this.
I'll see what tomorrow brings, but may try to either go to the Isle of Wight tomorrow, or may just potter around the town here and take a look at the history here locally.
Travelled south to Southampton on the train from Edinburgh day before yesterday. Thought I'd take the long trip via Glasgow and through the west of England. Really glad I made that decision. The region between Edinburgh and Glasgow is so wild and empty - and quite beautiful. Old stone farm houses scattered in such isolation - sheep and loads of newborn lambs - small fields surrounded with stone walls. Wet, green and with snow-covered highlands all around.
Didn't cost much extra to upgrade to a 1st class train fare and very glad I did it. Train was delayed getting out of Glasgow by an hour and a half and various other delays along the way meant it arrived into Wolverhampton (my changeover stop) nearly 2 hours late. No big deal though, and the service couldn't be faulted.
I think I've pretty well paid for the Britrail pass with the travel so far.
Decided yesterday was to be a full rest day and so did bugger all other than read and rest in the room all day. Went out in search of food late afternoon then back for more reading before an early bed time. Was a good move.
Woke up this morning to a beautiful blue clear sky - the first one I've seen since I arrived in Munich. Early start and decided to head to Winchester on the train and check out this ancient city.
Loved it - the history of so much of what makes up the culture of the English is centred here - in particular the history of architecture, the monarchy and the church. I saw Arthur's round table (well the one built in the 12th century), the great hall where Sir Walter Raleigh was tried, queens and kings hung out and where the Romans in an earlier structure were located.
Winchester cathedral is amazing - the fact that it's both Norman and Gothic fascinated me as I really like the Norman architectural style. The audio tour was fascinating and the dates on some of the burial stones in the cathedral go back to the early 17th century. Saw Jane Austen's stone also.
The library has a couple of globes that pre-date any discovery of Australia. Really underscores how relatively young Australia is in the greater history of settled cultures.
Nicholas Waller's House, now a pub built 1509.
I'm getting a good picture of what my background is and the history of who I am and where I came from. It's having a very strange effect on me though - not in a good way either, but I'll take more time to assess this.
I'll see what tomorrow brings, but may try to either go to the Isle of Wight tomorrow, or may just potter around the town here and take a look at the history here locally.
Sunday, April 4
Sunday April 4 - Edinburgh
I had a couple of goes at getting a post up for the couple of days I spent in York, but got side-tracked both times. York was amazing - so old and full of history and interesting corners. The fact that it was all pretty much within walking distance of everything else made it a very very satisfying exploration.
Di and Brian had travelled to York with me in the train and I headed off to the hotel while they got some lunch. Did my usual thing and picked up a Hop-on Hop-off bus tour ticket after I'd checked into the hotel and met back up with D & B and we all hopped on the bus and did a tour, then got off and explored the York museum. Saw the most interesting displays of life in York back through time - including in the jail cells. But I think the recreation of the town was a highlight for me.
Was sad saying goodbye to D & B - they all made me feel so much a part of their family and friends that it was like saying goodbye to a sister and brother. I may never see them again in person, but they'll always be in my heart.
Next day, I spent hours wandering the backstreets and alleys, but a few things really stick out for me. One was wandering into York Minster and as it was Easter Friday, there was a service going on - with the most amazing choir singing. Such a beautiful structure, and I had no idea an entire major section of it had been totally destroyed by fire and re-built so relatively recently.
The other highlight was the Jorvik 'experience' exhibit - although very geared to the tourist, it's remarkably well done and I now have a whole lot better idea of the passage of history and conquest that is Britain.
Stayed in a lovely old building turned into a hotel - tiny room way up in the roof - but hey, what do you expect for bargain basement prices (for York anyway). Was clean and all fairly new though, so not complaining. Need the exercise getting up and down all the stairs to get the weight off from the huge servings of food you get.
Yesterday I set off from York to Edinburgh again by train and again have a tiny room in the roof - with delightful old furniture, a bus across the road and a friend to meet up with in the city.
Once again I have a "virtual" friend to catch up with, and again, we seemed to know each other on sight. Spent a delightful few hours wandering up the roads and down the roads (all cobbled) in the old part of Edinburgh. Determined that tomorrow I'd explore all this in far more detail, but it was great getting a bit of a potted guided tour to start with.
Tempest was spending today (Easter Sunday) doing the family thing with painted eggs and a hill down which to roll them. Must be a Scots thing to do, and again saying a farewell at the taxi was like leaving a long-known friend. Something that seems to be common when I've known people in a virtual world for so long. In Tempest's case, for a couple of years.
Today I headed out in a tour bus with a live guide - and started out with a full circuit, then got off and took a look at a 16th century building that's been set up as it was when the bits of it were built (15th, 17th and 18th centuries) - Gladstone's Land. Then headed up the hill to Edinburgh Castle. 3 hours later I'd walked and listened and looked and taken photos of a very dramatic and historic construction. The audio tour is probably one of the best I've ever taken - highly informative and detailed. I saw the Scottish Crown jewels (the Honour), the tiny 12th century chapel, a grand hall, a dim and dank tower, loads of amazing stoneworked buildings, and gobsmacking views out over the city and beyond.
Had very tired feed by the time I wandered back down the Royal Mile and headed into an old pub for a dark ale. Then back onto another bus (love the hop-on hop-off buses) back to the end of the run and found a taxi back to the hotel.
I've decided to stay here another night, so will go back to check more out tomorrow. Couldn't be bothered trying to sort out the Skye trip last night to be honest - tired and the internet access was dodgy. Luckily, I can stay as the room is again available - bonus - they're full otherwise. Traveling alone can have it's benefits at times - though it's a bit lonely sitting in pubs on my own - would love to talk to someone about what I've done.
Oh and yes --- that IS snow on the hills.
More later - this is a bit epic.
Was sad saying goodbye to D & B - they all made me feel so much a part of their family and friends that it was like saying goodbye to a sister and brother. I may never see them again in person, but they'll always be in my heart.
Next day, I spent hours wandering the backstreets and alleys, but a few things really stick out for me. One was wandering into York Minster and as it was Easter Friday, there was a service going on - with the most amazing choir singing. Such a beautiful structure, and I had no idea an entire major section of it had been totally destroyed by fire and re-built so relatively recently.
The other highlight was the Jorvik 'experience' exhibit - although very geared to the tourist, it's remarkably well done and I now have a whole lot better idea of the passage of history and conquest that is Britain.
Stayed in a lovely old building turned into a hotel - tiny room way up in the roof - but hey, what do you expect for bargain basement prices (for York anyway). Was clean and all fairly new though, so not complaining. Need the exercise getting up and down all the stairs to get the weight off from the huge servings of food you get.
Yesterday I set off from York to Edinburgh again by train and again have a tiny room in the roof - with delightful old furniture, a bus across the road and a friend to meet up with in the city.
Once again I have a "virtual" friend to catch up with, and again, we seemed to know each other on sight. Spent a delightful few hours wandering up the roads and down the roads (all cobbled) in the old part of Edinburgh. Determined that tomorrow I'd explore all this in far more detail, but it was great getting a bit of a potted guided tour to start with.
Tempest was spending today (Easter Sunday) doing the family thing with painted eggs and a hill down which to roll them. Must be a Scots thing to do, and again saying a farewell at the taxi was like leaving a long-known friend. Something that seems to be common when I've known people in a virtual world for so long. In Tempest's case, for a couple of years.
Had very tired feed by the time I wandered back down the Royal Mile and headed into an old pub for a dark ale. Then back onto another bus (love the hop-on hop-off buses) back to the end of the run and found a taxi back to the hotel.
I've decided to stay here another night, so will go back to check more out tomorrow. Couldn't be bothered trying to sort out the Skye trip last night to be honest - tired and the internet access was dodgy. Luckily, I can stay as the room is again available - bonus - they're full otherwise. Traveling alone can have it's benefits at times - though it's a bit lonely sitting in pubs on my own - would love to talk to someone about what I've done.
More later - this is a bit epic.
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