Have been spending a wonderful time with my OL friend and her family here in the old pit village in Yorkshire.
It's as though I've been drawn into a large family and treated like a treasured friend. If Di, Bri, Sarah, Carl, Gabby, Libby and Bruce and all the other friends and family I've met are an example of the heart of the people of Yorkshire, it's got to be one of the warmest places on the planet. These new friends have the most wonderful generosity of spirit and while it's a little confusing at times, the family chaos is fun and a joy to watch.
I've been taken all over the surrounding countryside, so have seen some of the amazing Yorkshire moors, the old villages, stone-walled fields filled with shaggy sheep or cows and the occasional horse. Some lovely old buildings and good food.
Doesn't cease to amaze me at the size of the cups of tea you're given - love it - and it's good tea.
The weather's been drizzly and grey, but that's not by any chance dampened my enjoyment and now I have an appropriate anorak to keep me snuggy warm (went shopping in Doncaster yesterday), I don't care what the weather's like.
However, having said that, the weather forecast was for snow in the higher places today, so we put off a train trip into York today and I decided I'd actually head there for a few days exploration on my own over Easter.
There's to be (or there's intended to be) a train strike for 3 days starting Tuesday after Easter, so I'm going to head there before that, and hope to get to Edinburgh at least before it starts to possibly impact me, and hopefully they'll sort it out anyway.
It's my birthday tomorrow - and will spend it with my Yorkshire friends - lovely way to spend it.
Sometimes I think I'd like to head home, but then I think to myself that I'm in England - ENGLAND - the place of my birth and my heritage - and then there's all of Europe to explore, and more friends to meet up with.
Tuesday, March 30
Friday, March 26
Saturday 27 March - London
I spend yesterday exploring Colchester and in particular the Norman keep there - a completely absorbing day, regardless of the rain.
This trip was always intended as a means for me to find out more about my past and my heritage, and staying with my aunt and uncle has provided that in spades. I've learned so much about my family history including a lot of stuff from when I was little and living in England - it's surprising how much of my memory is reasonably accurate. I've also discovered there's a large portion of relatives living in Melbourne, and who are still in close contact with Av and Ken, so I'll try to contact them when I get home.
Exploring the history presented in the Keep and wandering or bussing around the streets seems to be adding an extra depth to me - filling in some of the holes I've always felt existed in me.
We decided that I'd leave half of my gear with Av and Ken and take a smaller bag for the next couple of weeks I intend wandering around the UK. I've also contacted my friend Sue who lives in London and I haven't seen since she left Perth for a new and exciting job back in the late 1990s. I'll stay with her and her hubby for a few days while I explore London more fully before heading to the continent some time mid April.
Must contact the other rellies too and get to see them.
Checked into a nice little hotel (love all these tiny hotels) just up from the Kings Cross/St Pancras station. The room wasn't available when I arrived as I was early, so found one of the Hop-on-Hop-off bus tours and toodled around London for a couple of hours. I'm actually getting fairly comfortable with using the underground now - it's all so well signposted and people are happy to help if I ask.
This is really London - the bits you hear about, read about and generally absorb. Must take many more pictures though. Ended up at the Thames under Big Ben and on a river trip down to Tower Bridge, then spend a delightful several hours wandering around the Tower of London. It's nothing like I'd expected as I don't think I'd even ever seen pictures of it, just the bits you get in movies/tv etc - talk about being ignorant of places that are ubiquitous in the media and literature of my time.
The Tower of London - completely not what I'd imagined.
I'll have to think about it a bit before I can really add my impressions here, but on the surface one thing I can say is that I seem to be looking at a lot of 13th to 17th century (and earlier - in terms of Colchester) and seeing solidity, construction meant for the centuries, harmony of design, functionality and use of small spaces. Mind you the huge fireplace on display in the Colchester keep was wonderful. It's surprising that the royal residences in the Tower precinct were so compact - none of the grandeur of later eras.
Will try to pick up another tour route in the morning for a couple of hours before heading to the train to leave at mid-day and a meeting with another of my real virtual friends.
Oh yes - I've been getting some work done on the Phaedran Chronicles too - must upload the one I've completed. The next one is almost done and will probably get that up in the next few days.
Wednesday, March 24
Wednesday 24 March - Colchester
The train ride through Germany, into Belgium and a corner of France - then into England went a lot faster than you'd think - even though it was 12 hours.
German trains are excellent, fast, on time it seems and easy to figure out once you have a modicum of help.
Lots of German businessmen in the carriage from Munich to Frankfurt - all on laptops or mobiles most of the way - all in black suits.
I was a little surprised at how much of the countryside is open fields - far more than I had expected to see given the perception I'd had of lots of people in small countries (compared to in Aus). One thing that did strike me and I wasn't sure I'd actually seen it when first spied - are the tiny little box-like structures that were clustered around and seemed to be homes - very poor homes, but definitely inhabited. Tiny little houses that must have only been single roomed, some with sheds and lean-tos added. Seemed to be made of wood.
I asked my English traveling companion about them on the train between Frankfurt and Brussels - he told me they'd been built for the migrant labour originally bought into Germany at some time. He hadn't noticed them before and hadn't realised they were lived in.
The other noticeable thing is the coloured buildings - all painted different although built but-up against each other. I'd wondered whether they were built using coloured plaster/concrete cladding or whether they were painted. It seems they're painted - be a bugger of a job to keep them up. Most of the buildings in the cities are 3 or 4 floors and quite narrow across the front. The really surprising thing was that when I saw some of these blocks of houses that had some of their surrounding buildings demolished - is that they were really skinny depth wise too.
There's a wide variety of facade designs too, but overall a sense of place and 'fit'. In the villages where homes are more detatched, they're also brightly coloured for the most part - a bit of a mosaic really, and it's as if they're at peace with the landscape.
I'd read in the Lonely Planet that there is a marked difference in the Bavarian style and the rest of Germany, and it's fairly noticeable. I'd like to do more exploration of the Bavarian countryside when I come back.
The train from Brussels to London meant going through border control before boarding, though nothing onerous. Then it's quite a rapid trip - the tunnel bit actually came as a surprise - one second I'd been looking out of the window at rural France, then glanced down at my ipod and the next look up all was dark.
By the time we came out of the tunnel on the English side, it was night. I was back in England after 52 years.Off the train and into the underground, found the train to Victoria St, and it was only a short taxi ride to the hotel.
A street lined on both sides with terrace houses that had obviously been converted into tiny hotels - and a Best Western which obviously took up several houses. The Vegas Hotel (I know, don't laugh) was tiny, the manager had a sense of humour equal to a peanut and down stairs to a door that opened into a small space that contained the toilet and shower and a door that led into a quite pleasant little room with a window that looked into a tiny courtyard.
Bag open, jammies out and sleep. I was in London.
Up fairly early the next morning, brekkie and out to find the underground again. Walked to the station as it wasn't far and it was good to walk the streets - all so narrow and busy - so many people, all looking like they have somewhere they have to be. And all the black cars...lots of people riding motor scooters too, would definately be the best way to get around.
Found the station, packed subway to Liverpool St station, across the road to the national line and found the train to Colchester waiting at the station. 50 minute ride to Colchester and there was Av and Ken waiting for me. Spent a lovely day sitting drinking tea and catching up on so much - family, memory, travels, lives - much needed rest as the body's had enough of all the stairs I've had to deal with over the past couple of days - up and down to trains - though for the most part someone always grabbed the back of my bag and helped me getting up - getting down's easy, got that one sorted when in the US and this bag's brilliant for it. But it's all still tiring, and everywhere is sooooo heated.
Great night's sleep in a comfy bed.
Today we're heading off to have lunch in a 14th century pub and toodle around the villages and local sights.
Tomorrow I'll go explore the local Norman castle - my holiday's really beginning ....
German trains are excellent, fast, on time it seems and easy to figure out once you have a modicum of help.
Lots of German businessmen in the carriage from Munich to Frankfurt - all on laptops or mobiles most of the way - all in black suits.
I was a little surprised at how much of the countryside is open fields - far more than I had expected to see given the perception I'd had of lots of people in small countries (compared to in Aus). One thing that did strike me and I wasn't sure I'd actually seen it when first spied - are the tiny little box-like structures that were clustered around and seemed to be homes - very poor homes, but definitely inhabited. Tiny little houses that must have only been single roomed, some with sheds and lean-tos added. Seemed to be made of wood.
I asked my English traveling companion about them on the train between Frankfurt and Brussels - he told me they'd been built for the migrant labour originally bought into Germany at some time. He hadn't noticed them before and hadn't realised they were lived in.
The other noticeable thing is the coloured buildings - all painted different although built but-up against each other. I'd wondered whether they were built using coloured plaster/concrete cladding or whether they were painted. It seems they're painted - be a bugger of a job to keep them up. Most of the buildings in the cities are 3 or 4 floors and quite narrow across the front. The really surprising thing was that when I saw some of these blocks of houses that had some of their surrounding buildings demolished - is that they were really skinny depth wise too.
There's a wide variety of facade designs too, but overall a sense of place and 'fit'. In the villages where homes are more detatched, they're also brightly coloured for the most part - a bit of a mosaic really, and it's as if they're at peace with the landscape.
I'd read in the Lonely Planet that there is a marked difference in the Bavarian style and the rest of Germany, and it's fairly noticeable. I'd like to do more exploration of the Bavarian countryside when I come back.
The train from Brussels to London meant going through border control before boarding, though nothing onerous. Then it's quite a rapid trip - the tunnel bit actually came as a surprise - one second I'd been looking out of the window at rural France, then glanced down at my ipod and the next look up all was dark.
By the time we came out of the tunnel on the English side, it was night. I was back in England after 52 years.Off the train and into the underground, found the train to Victoria St, and it was only a short taxi ride to the hotel.
A street lined on both sides with terrace houses that had obviously been converted into tiny hotels - and a Best Western which obviously took up several houses. The Vegas Hotel (I know, don't laugh) was tiny, the manager had a sense of humour equal to a peanut and down stairs to a door that opened into a small space that contained the toilet and shower and a door that led into a quite pleasant little room with a window that looked into a tiny courtyard.
Bag open, jammies out and sleep. I was in London.
Up fairly early the next morning, brekkie and out to find the underground again. Walked to the station as it wasn't far and it was good to walk the streets - all so narrow and busy - so many people, all looking like they have somewhere they have to be. And all the black cars...lots of people riding motor scooters too, would definately be the best way to get around.
Found the station, packed subway to Liverpool St station, across the road to the national line and found the train to Colchester waiting at the station. 50 minute ride to Colchester and there was Av and Ken waiting for me. Spent a lovely day sitting drinking tea and catching up on so much - family, memory, travels, lives - much needed rest as the body's had enough of all the stairs I've had to deal with over the past couple of days - up and down to trains - though for the most part someone always grabbed the back of my bag and helped me getting up - getting down's easy, got that one sorted when in the US and this bag's brilliant for it. But it's all still tiring, and everywhere is sooooo heated.
Great night's sleep in a comfy bed.
Today we're heading off to have lunch in a 14th century pub and toodle around the villages and local sights.
Tomorrow I'll go explore the local Norman castle - my holiday's really beginning ....
Monday, March 22
Monday March 22nd - train ticket mystery solved
Spoke with the Aus travel agent last night and then again this morning and now all is sorted and I understand it. Apparently I have to reserve a seat on the Frankfurt to Brussels leg of the trip from the Munich station using my Eurail pass.
If I'd known this is what I had to do then (a) I would have reserved the seat when I was in the central station on Saturday and (b) I would have had a much nicer day of it yesterday. Oh well - now I understand it all, and along with the help Pants gave me online last evening, I should be able to figure it out easily.
So this morning it's off to London.
Next adventure is navigating the London underground to get from St Pancras to Victoria station and my hotel tonight, then to Liverpool St station to catch train to Colchester tomorrow morning. Going to be a long day, but not as wearing as plane travel - I like trains.
Sunday, March 21
Sunday March 21 - major hiccup
Last night before settling down I thought I'd do a check on my rail tickets for the Munich to London trip on Monday morning (tomorrow now) and discovered I only had a ticket from Munich to Frankfurt and from Brussels to London - no Frankfurt to Brussels leg.
Now it's Sunday here and I didn't get my act together early enough to ring the travel agent in Aus till after they'd closed up for the night. After hours number tried to help, but there doesn't appear to be much they can do until the office I booked with opens. Eurail number in Germany hung up on me when I told them I didn't speak German, and there's only a 1800 number for Europe Rail (the wholesaler) in the US so can't ring that. I catch the train at 9am tomorrow morning so not much time to fix this.
Girl downstairs in reception was extremely helpful and navigated the German speaking only line for Eurail but the upshot is nothing can be done from Germany. Need to ring travel people, so back on the phone to them (thank the deities whoever they may be, for Skype). They checked as much as they could, but have to get the booking agent involved. I know I've paid for it, so it's booked - but ticket not supplied. grrr.
One lucky thing is the agent opens at 7:30am so it's not like it's the absolute middle of the night that I have to ring them. Have set iCal to alert me at 8:30 tonight so I can start the process of making sure I have a ticket all the way. Damn and more damn on this. Was looking forward to some sightseeing today, but now it's mid-day and all I've done is try to get this sorted out. Don't really feel like going out now. No biggie, day of rest isn't going to do me any harm - and I have decided I'm going to come back to Munich to finish this trip anyway and fly home from here.
So I might just catch up on reading and resting up today - go out and find some lunch and then maybe later a snack, but generally have a quiet one. Reading right now feels like a good plan.
Will update once I know what's happening.
Now it's Sunday here and I didn't get my act together early enough to ring the travel agent in Aus till after they'd closed up for the night. After hours number tried to help, but there doesn't appear to be much they can do until the office I booked with opens. Eurail number in Germany hung up on me when I told them I didn't speak German, and there's only a 1800 number for Europe Rail (the wholesaler) in the US so can't ring that. I catch the train at 9am tomorrow morning so not much time to fix this.
Girl downstairs in reception was extremely helpful and navigated the German speaking only line for Eurail but the upshot is nothing can be done from Germany. Need to ring travel people, so back on the phone to them (thank the deities whoever they may be, for Skype). They checked as much as they could, but have to get the booking agent involved. I know I've paid for it, so it's booked - but ticket not supplied. grrr.
One lucky thing is the agent opens at 7:30am so it's not like it's the absolute middle of the night that I have to ring them. Have set iCal to alert me at 8:30 tonight so I can start the process of making sure I have a ticket all the way. Damn and more damn on this. Was looking forward to some sightseeing today, but now it's mid-day and all I've done is try to get this sorted out. Don't really feel like going out now. No biggie, day of rest isn't going to do me any harm - and I have decided I'm going to come back to Munich to finish this trip anyway and fly home from here.
So I might just catch up on reading and resting up today - go out and find some lunch and then maybe later a snack, but generally have a quiet one. Reading right now feels like a good plan.
Will update once I know what's happening.
Saturday, March 20
Day 2 - Munich
Got 12 hours of sleep and it was still hard to get up.
Arranged to meet Pants for a day starting with the Maharajah exhibition and headed off to tackle the underground with Pants's directions in one hand and the underground map in the other.
Having successfully made it to Odeonsplatz was gobsmacked at my first real sight of Europe. Coming out of the station the first thing you see is a vista of beautiful architecture which is exactly as I'd imagined the place to be, but more impressive because it's real - and while it's imposing it's not overwhelming. You can see it all and take it in at a glance. Not like a lot of the middle eastern historical works, and not as determinedly imposing as the major US edifices.
Recognised Pants the moment I saw him - even without checking out the colour of his shoes. Proceeded to have a wonderful day learning a something of Munich, a bit about the Indian maharajas and life in colonial India, a little about a friend and generally greatly enjoying the first day of the journey. I'm glad I decided on Munich to begin this trip - it's not a huge city, it's old without being overwhelmingly so, there are lots of happy-looking people surrounding you and the transport system isn't the tangled nightmare I've experienced in other places (including Australia).
Love the architecture. There's a symmetry to everything and a feeling of permanency. It's a quite different feeling than I had in any of the middle eastern or Asian cities I've been to (they just feel like they're part of the natural geography). Cities in the US felt impermanent, as if they're built to be recycled, much like those in Aus.
The city must look truly beautiful in the late autumn by the time all the trees are green - though I rather like the aesthetic of winter-bare trees which provide vista access to all around. There's a sense of impending life to them too, as if they're waiting for the spark that turns them back on.
Pic is from my chair at the end of a leisurely lunch.
The light is soft even though the sky is quite overcast. It was a little cool, but otherwise a not unpleasant day weather-wise. The street also appears to be 2-way even though you'd think it only one way on first glance (as I did).
Impressions:
Coffee, rabbits (of all shapes and sizes - I know Easter is coming, but these fluffy toys are as prolific as their namesake), Stone, walls painted to look like ornate stonework, soft Merlot, unbothersome greyish sky, indoor hanging forest, fast trains, helpful people - oh, and did I mention the coffee which is really good, a friend.
Arranged to meet Pants for a day starting with the Maharajah exhibition and headed off to tackle the underground with Pants's directions in one hand and the underground map in the other.
Having successfully made it to Odeonsplatz was gobsmacked at my first real sight of Europe. Coming out of the station the first thing you see is a vista of beautiful architecture which is exactly as I'd imagined the place to be, but more impressive because it's real - and while it's imposing it's not overwhelming. You can see it all and take it in at a glance. Not like a lot of the middle eastern historical works, and not as determinedly imposing as the major US edifices.
Recognised Pants the moment I saw him - even without checking out the colour of his shoes. Proceeded to have a wonderful day learning a something of Munich, a bit about the Indian maharajas and life in colonial India, a little about a friend and generally greatly enjoying the first day of the journey. I'm glad I decided on Munich to begin this trip - it's not a huge city, it's old without being overwhelmingly so, there are lots of happy-looking people surrounding you and the transport system isn't the tangled nightmare I've experienced in other places (including Australia).
Pick here from the underground exit - and includes my Bavarian friend.
Love the architecture. There's a symmetry to everything and a feeling of permanency. It's a quite different feeling than I had in any of the middle eastern or Asian cities I've been to (they just feel like they're part of the natural geography). Cities in the US felt impermanent, as if they're built to be recycled, much like those in Aus.
The city must look truly beautiful in the late autumn by the time all the trees are green - though I rather like the aesthetic of winter-bare trees which provide vista access to all around. There's a sense of impending life to them too, as if they're waiting for the spark that turns them back on.
Pic is from my chair at the end of a leisurely lunch.
The light is soft even though the sky is quite overcast. It was a little cool, but otherwise a not unpleasant day weather-wise. The street also appears to be 2-way even though you'd think it only one way on first glance (as I did).
Impressions:
Coffee, rabbits (of all shapes and sizes - I know Easter is coming, but these fluffy toys are as prolific as their namesake), Stone, walls painted to look like ornate stonework, soft Merlot, unbothersome greyish sky, indoor hanging forest, fast trains, helpful people - oh, and did I mention the coffee which is really good, a friend.
Day 1 - Melbourne - Munich
Long, long day, but not a bad one all things considered.
Checkin in Melbourne no hassles and even though I got there more than 2 hours ahead of departure, by the time I'd meandered my way to the departure lounge, only had to sit and wait about half an hour before the flight boarded. Etihad board early it seems.
I'd recommend this airline to anyone wanting to travel internationally. Not only are ticket prices very reasonable, the service on their planes is exceptional, the food is pretty damned good, the choice of movies is fairly broad and numerous, everything is clean and as it should be and generally speaking the whole experience was by far the least hassle of any international travel I've done so far.
The seat next to me on the Melbourne to Abu Dhabi leg was empty, so I had room to enjoy and got a fair bit of sleep too.
Landed in Abu Dhabi just as the sun was rising, so got to see the place from the air - lots of nothing for a fair while, then gradually more signs of life as we got closer. The city itself is very spread out but just before we got to the airport we overflew the F1 track with the huge odd-shaped building that's nearby. The track and it's environment though is impressive al on it's own. Pete would love it. Oh yes, there's a huge palace too - with spiked towers that have navigation lights on them. Not much else though other than a number of very tall buildings dotted around in an otherwise fairly sparse and flat landscape. The arrivals area of the airport is a huge half torus shape with blue and yellow tiled central arching pillar that becomes the ceiling and continues as the walls and floor.
Trying to get information on a city tour was very hard. Got different advice from different information kiosks, but the general thing seemed to be a bus or taxi from the airport to "the mall", then locate the tour place and there should be something from there. It all seemed too vague for my liking and all the quoted estimated prices were fairly expensive. On top of that there were no lockups available to leave my bags in - so I chose to just stay in the airport. Headed back in through immigration again, grabbed a hot chocolate and tuna bagel and found a quiet corner where I ate, then curled up to catch some sleep - something I was not the only one doing. The pic here I took from the Transit lounge window - the curved building in the background is the flight tower and is as impressive as it is unusual looking.
Flight from Abu Dhabi to Munich was full, so not as comfortable but again, service and food good. Same movie choices as before, so amused myself for several hours watching The Big Bang episodes.
Arrived in Munich ahead of schedule and was too tired to even consider working out buses, so got in the first taxi in the line and headed to the hotel.
As with Etihad, I'd equally recommend Ghotel to anyone wanting to come to Munich and looking for a not-too-expensive-but-very-good hotel.
Single room with ensuite and small kitchenette for what you'd otherwise pay twice as much for in Sydney and 3 times as much for in Canberra during the week. All new and clean - and reception staff have all been cheerful and helpful.
Good speed WiFi connection for a reasonable daily price and very close to the underground, cafes, restaurants, bars and some attractions I'll explore before leaving.
Bed was way too inviting to think about anything other than sleep though.
Checkin in Melbourne no hassles and even though I got there more than 2 hours ahead of departure, by the time I'd meandered my way to the departure lounge, only had to sit and wait about half an hour before the flight boarded. Etihad board early it seems.
I'd recommend this airline to anyone wanting to travel internationally. Not only are ticket prices very reasonable, the service on their planes is exceptional, the food is pretty damned good, the choice of movies is fairly broad and numerous, everything is clean and as it should be and generally speaking the whole experience was by far the least hassle of any international travel I've done so far.
The seat next to me on the Melbourne to Abu Dhabi leg was empty, so I had room to enjoy and got a fair bit of sleep too.
Landed in Abu Dhabi just as the sun was rising, so got to see the place from the air - lots of nothing for a fair while, then gradually more signs of life as we got closer. The city itself is very spread out but just before we got to the airport we overflew the F1 track with the huge odd-shaped building that's nearby. The track and it's environment though is impressive al on it's own. Pete would love it. Oh yes, there's a huge palace too - with spiked towers that have navigation lights on them. Not much else though other than a number of very tall buildings dotted around in an otherwise fairly sparse and flat landscape. The arrivals area of the airport is a huge half torus shape with blue and yellow tiled central arching pillar that becomes the ceiling and continues as the walls and floor.
Trying to get information on a city tour was very hard. Got different advice from different information kiosks, but the general thing seemed to be a bus or taxi from the airport to "the mall", then locate the tour place and there should be something from there. It all seemed too vague for my liking and all the quoted estimated prices were fairly expensive. On top of that there were no lockups available to leave my bags in - so I chose to just stay in the airport. Headed back in through immigration again, grabbed a hot chocolate and tuna bagel and found a quiet corner where I ate, then curled up to catch some sleep - something I was not the only one doing. The pic here I took from the Transit lounge window - the curved building in the background is the flight tower and is as impressive as it is unusual looking.
Flight from Abu Dhabi to Munich was full, so not as comfortable but again, service and food good. Same movie choices as before, so amused myself for several hours watching The Big Bang episodes.
Arrived in Munich ahead of schedule and was too tired to even consider working out buses, so got in the first taxi in the line and headed to the hotel.
As with Etihad, I'd equally recommend Ghotel to anyone wanting to come to Munich and looking for a not-too-expensive-but-very-good hotel.
Single room with ensuite and small kitchenette for what you'd otherwise pay twice as much for in Sydney and 3 times as much for in Canberra during the week. All new and clean - and reception staff have all been cheerful and helpful.
Good speed WiFi connection for a reasonable daily price and very close to the underground, cafes, restaurants, bars and some attractions I'll explore before leaving.
Bed was way too inviting to think about anything other than sleep though.
Tuesday, March 16
Getting ready to leave
Well I've done the initial pack of my bag - just have to go back through it tomorrow now and chuck out the stuff I really won't need.
Nap late arvo tomorrow then head out around 8pm.
Will be a long flight/day - especially if I don't get a good rest tomorrow.
Leave at 11:15pm, 14 hours to Abu Dhabi, 7 hour layover there then 9 hour flight to Munich. So 30 hours traveling though I should get some sleep on the flights.
Hotel's booked in Munich, train is booked to London on Monday and overnight hotel's also booked in London before heading out to stay with family on Tuesday morning.
Looking forward to a fun time with Pants in Munich - tours, exhibition, beer/coffee/tea. Lovely way to begin a long awaited trip.
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